Said Clunn, "I was throwing a little squarebill, and when the fourth fish of the day hit, I did something different. I stopped, pushed the rod toward the fish, and set the hook. After that, every one of the fish had the lure buried in its throat."
The problem all along had been that Clunn had been using new graphite rods, which had been given to all the Classic-qualifying anglers. The rods were just too sensitive.
As he explained, "A bass 'pushes' a crankbait when it comes up behind the bait, and if you're a good angler, you can feel that. What happens is that you end up setting the hook too early. Glass rods, on the other hand, aren't as sensitive, and when you feel the fish, it's actually on the lure, not behind it. The glass rods definitely make a positive difference in crankbait fishing," he said.
At one time, Clunn had a whole line of signature-series rods called S-Glass by Wright & McGill. From what I can tell, though, about the only place you might find any of those rods today are on eBay. And even then, it appears you will find more Wright & McGill crankbait rods with Skeet Reese's name on them.
Don't despair, however, because Tackle Warehouse and other companies carry an extensive selection of cranking rods that are designed specifically for this style of fishing.
A good crankbait rod should have a relatively slow action. In other words, the rod should start to bend about halfway down when moderate pressure is applied to the top section. Fast action means that just the top third will bend with the same pressure.
Slower rods will help cast the lure farther and help keep from tearing out the hooks when you catch a strong fish or when your fish turns and runs hard near the boat. Many experts contend that the slower action also will give the bass a little more time to inhale the bait before you set the hook, ensuring that you don't rip the bait away from the fish before it gets the hook.
If you don't have a cranking rod, select a medium-action rod or a fiberglass rod that will have enough power to cast big lures and handle heavy fish. Avoid a stiff, heavy rod, and don't use one that's too wimpy, either, because you'll need to get a good hookset on fish that may be a fair distance from the boat. A rod with no backbone won't get the job done.
While reels are a little less critical for effective cranking, many experienced anglers select reels with 4:1 or 5:1 gear ratios to slow down the bait and provide more power for cranking in heavy fish. Make sure the reel has plenty of line capacity, since you often will be making longer casts. With a little wind at your back, you can send a big crankbait a long way.
It's a fair assessment to say that crankbaits can be effective just about anywhere there are bass: steep rocky banks and ledges, broad shallow flats, near grass beds, and over and around brush and stumps. All it takes is knowing the characteristics of your favorite crankbaits and selecting those that are most useful in each situation.
If you're fishing deep structure, get a deep-diving lure that will reach the bottom and strike the structure you think the fish are holding on. When you're fishing shallow cover, select a medium- or shallow-running crankbait that will stay up where the bass are and can run through the cover, striking limbs and stumps along the way.
One of the best things about crankbait fishing is that it's versatile. You can fish these baits nearly all year long and in a wide variety of situations.
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