It begins with understanding how they're created. All of these lines, regardless of brand, are made of gel-spun polyethylene, a material that is not harmed or changed by any chemical and can withstand pretty extreme temperatures (e.g., explains why most beakers and test tubes in chemical labs are made of polyethylene). The same goes for braid and superlines. Unlike monofilament, fairly high heat, chemicals and UV rays will not degrade braids and superlines.
As pointed out in the earlier post (see Some Things May Be Forever--Braided Fishing Line Isn't One of Them), these lines eventually lose their color because you only can put color on polyethylene, not in it. Nothing likes to stick to this material, but loss of color does not mean a loss of strength. So, if these lines are so tough, why do they sometimes break or degrade?
According to Joe Meyer, former product development manager (now chief mechanical engineer) for superlines at Pure Fishing, there are four main reasons, including the following:
Bad Guides. "When someone comes to me and says, 'I just put this line on, and it keeps breaking,' the first thing I do is look at their rod. Most of the time, I find a crack, chip or rough spot in their ceramic guides," said Meyer. "Braid and superlines are made of polyethylene fibers all woven together, so naturally if you start fraying those fibers, the line gets weaker."
Re-Tie Refusal. Some guys will say, "Well, it's a superline. It's so strong I don't need to retie." That's a mistaken notion, though. "Your first 3 or 4 feet of line, whether you're catching fish or not, will weaken the fastest," said Meyer. "Polyethylene doesn't like to bend, so just from hanging at a 90-degree angle off the rod tip, fibers can slowly fray over time. The line starts to look 'hairy' (photo above is a good example), as anglers often say. Abrasion is the worst enemy of these lines. You have to check it often."
Mismatched Gear. Meyer also noted that it's very important to match braid or superlines with the right rod and reel. "Because braid has no stretch, it doesn't handle shock very well. So if you have a rod that feels like a cue stick matched with light braid, and you set the hook hard," he explained, "you're not going to be happy. It's going to snap. I see it all the time with muskie guys. They backlash on the cast, and that heavy, expensive lure just keeps on going...and going...and going--you get the picture."
Hook Hangers. Finally, Meyer said, "I see a lot of anglers hook their crankbaits and other lures onto their reels when traveling between fishing spots. All it takes is one point touching the line or digging into the spool, and it'll start to fray."
In his words, "It's important to note that, just because all braids and superlines are made with polyethylene, they're not all created equal. If you are a firm believer that a certain brand is better than another brand you used to fish, check the fiber/strand count. The fewer the fibers, the faster fraying, on a microscopic level, is going to weaken the braid. However, in theory, a length of 30-pound braid with a lower fiber count should be as strong as one with a higher count, provided that line is in perfect, unfrayed condition."
What's the meaning of all this info? "Ultimately," concluded Meyer, "it means your superline will take as good care of you as you do of it. If your braid keeps breaking, check the rod guides and line roller on the reel before you blame the brand. (Note: A good way to check rod guides for nicks is to run a cotton swab around each one.) When you put the rod away at day's end, is the line or spool leaning on something that might cause it to abrade? These small details can help you get multiple seasons out of your braid and superlines. So take the time; you'll be glad you did."
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