Is Your Boat's Rub Rail Rubbing You Wrong?

If the problem is with some of the screws under the rub rail working loose and creating bulges in it, there is something most average do-it-yourselfers can do to fix it. That's the word from Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Famer George Kramer in an Aug. 21, 2013 blog post he put up.

As noted in Kramer's original post, bulging rub rails are a common problem with Nitros and Skeeters...at least older models...so if you happen to own one of those boats, you're probably familiar with the problem.

The rub rail, of course, is that bumper of sorts that runs along the cap line of the hull/deck...the most outward edge of the sides of your rig. The bracket that secures the rail is screwed into the fiberglass, or as often is true with older boats, may be riveted in place. So, like everything threaded, with enough vibration, those screws can work loose and start pressing on the rail from the inside.

Close up, you can see the "grooves" that let the rubber pop back into place. Fortunately, this can be addressed with a minimum of technical savvy and tools, which is a good thing. It means that, before the rail shakes loose and blows back in your face, it can be secured for next to nothing. For Kramer, the only cost involved was $6 for some blue Loctite. It should be noted here that some fellas prefer to use silicone, vice Loctite. Either product seems to work.

With a flat screwdriver, pry off the rub rail, which will let you see the condition of the screws. You can do a whole side of the boat, or just go a few feet at a time...probably the best option if you choose to be cautious. Once exposed, simply apply a little Loctite or silicone to the screws before retightening.

As Kramer advised, you might want to check all the screws while they're exposed to find out just how tight they all are. If they come loose with only minor pressure, you likely would be better served to just go ahead and expose some more thread, apply a little Loctite or silicone, then retighten all of them fairly snugly...no more than about a quarter turn, though. Remember: You're screwing into fiberglass, so don't try to ratchet them down as if you were going metal to metal.

Now you're ready to put the rub rail back in place. While holding the lower edge of the rub rail in its slot, simply push down on the top slotting with the same large flathead screwdriver, and the rubber should ease back into its track. Then take a rubber mallet and tap along the course, and when you're done, you shouldn't be able to tell the rub rail ever was off.

It's not a big job...at least, it wasn't for Kramer. "Took me maybe an hour as a first-timer. If I had to do it again, I probably could do it in half that time," he said.

If you're interested in watching a video about how to do this job, here's the link to one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ok9o-XlFlsQ.